Methodism in Swaledale page 5
METHODISM
IN
SWALEDALE AND THE NEIGHBOURHOOD.
AMIDST the hills and dales of the North Riding of Yorkshire
lies the romantic and quiet valley of the Swale. Although
it cannot boast of possessing beautiful mansions and wealthy
residents, yet for bold and striking scenery, rich mineral
deposits, and industrious and intelligent inhabitants, it
is second to none of the adjacent dales. Swaledale derives
its name from the river Swale, which rises a few miles above
the village of Keld, and pursues its course past Muker,
Gunnerside, Low Row, Healaugh, Reeth, on to Richmond, and,
after forming a junction with the Ure at Myton, ultimately
falls into the Ouse. It is supposed to have received this
designation on account of the swiftness of its progress
resembling the flight of the swallow, the Saxon word for
which is sualew. Tradition informs us
Methodism in Swaledale page 6
that when Christianity was first made known to the inhabitants
of this neighbourhood by Paulinus, the first Archbishop
of York, so numerous were the converts that ten thousand
were baptised in this river in one day, in consequence of
which event it was looked upon with veneration by our Saxon
ancestors, and called the Jordan of England. Flowing along
the lowlands of the valley in irregular and serpentine courses,
it forms a most beautiful and picturesque object, contrasting
strikingly with the giant hills which look down with frowning
aspect upon its impetuous current at their base.
The fourteen miles which form the strip of country called
Swaledale comprise a greater diversity of scenery than can
be found within the same limits in any other part of England.
Vale and mountain, wood and water, rippling streams and
bursting waterfalls, green fields and moorland wastes -
some of these meet the eye which ever way we turn. White,
the well known tourist, in his "Month in Yorkshire",
when speaking of this dale, says "How beautifully the
bright green contrasts with the dark purple distances, and
softens the features of the dale, and, as I looked from
side to
Methodism in Swaledale page 7
side, or around to the rear, as the falling road made the
hills seem higher, I saw how much Swaledale has in common
with the valley of the Alps. I felt that here the desire
for mountain scenery might be satisfied, and amongst these
hills, and glens, and ravines there was many a spot which
it would be a pleasure to explore."
The late Thomas Coates of Reeth, a well known local preacher
and poet, celebrated the beauties of Swaledale in a poem
which he published, in which he sings,-
"'Tis charming in the month of May,
When nature is so blythe and gay,
To view at once the distant hills,
The rivers, bridges, and corn mills.
The towers of churches, seats of squires,
Such scenes the mountain soul inspires.-
If to the north you turn your eyes
The "Edge" doth so majestic rise,-
Just as the sun, with light askance,
Throws out a last departing glance,
Presents a scene so rich and bold,
The cliffs appear as tinged with gold;-
And scattered fragments all around,
Split from the rocks, bestrew the ground."
The above lines are descriptive of the lower parts of the
dale. Another local poet, (Mr. T. Ford,) describes the scenery
higher up, more particularly in the neighbourhood of Gunnerside
:-
Methodism in Swaledale page 8
"Hail! fairest village of the dale!
Peace reigns within thy rural pale;-
Behold the smooth and verdant mead
Where lowing cattle frisk and feed!-
The lofty hills that heavenward rise,
And seem to touch the azure skies,
Cannot their world of wealth conceal!-
But in the miner's hands reveal
Their spreading veins of useful ore,
Of which no doubt there is good store,
But which is often hard to find
In quantities to suit the mind :-
Amongst the mines we may relate
Surrender, Kinnin, and Blakewaite,
With Bunting, Blind Gill, Beldi Hill,
And celebrated Swinnergill."
Although Swaledale occupies but a very subordinate place
on the page of history, it is, nevertheless, not altogether
void of historic interest. Several traces of the presence
of Roman legions are to be seen, especially in the neighbourhood
of Fremington and Grinton. Coins, implements of labour,
weapons of war, and articles of personal adornment, belonging
to some unknown ancestors have been found in various places.
On the slopes of Fremington Edge the remains of a Roman
entrenchment exist, which seems to have crossed the Swale
in parallel lines, running up Harker side to the south and
south-west.
Methodism
in Swaledale page 9
Very recently a Roman coin in a good state of preservation
was picked up near this place, and is now in the possession
of Geo. A. Robinson, Esq., of Reeth. Many of the old workings
in the lead mines show evident marks of ancient operations.
It is supposed, not without some reason for it, that the
lead mines at Hurst are the oldest in the kingdom, and that
this village was one of the penal settlements to which Rome
sent its convicts above a thousand years ago. This supposition
is strengthened by the fact that some years since a piece
of lead was discovered in one of the old mines bearing the
inscription upon it of "Hadrian" one of the emperors
of Rome, which is now in the British Museum in London. It
is not at all unlikely but that the entrenchment at High
Fremington just named, may have had some connection with
these mines; probably a guard of Roman soldiers may have
been stationed there to watch the convicts in the vicinity.
Upon the dark and sombre declivities of Harkerside there
are remains of an ancient structure known by the name of
"Maiden Castle." "It is as nearly circular
as the nature of the ground will admit, and the ditches
still continue deep and wide. On
Methodism in Swaledale page 10
the east side is an avenue above a hundred yards long leading
towards it, and formed by stones gathered from the adjacent
common. Near the west end of the avenue, but towards the
north, is a large Barrow of stones and gravel which has
been imperfectly opened, and of which tradition reports,
it yet contains an iron chest filled with money. About three
hundred yards south west from the encampment, and on a kind
of natural terrace, is another oblong barrow, and farther
west are the remains of several cairns." The chest
of gold still floats in the visions of the marvellous, but
like other treasures of the mountains, it remains yet undiscovered,
and ever will do. Conjecture fails to arrive at any definite
conclusion respecting the origin and uses of this place.
It is generally supposed to have been of Roman construction,
and probably connected with the before mentioned excavations.
The name itself would seem to indicate a later period than
the one just named. The question has arisen in the mind
of the writer, whether it has ever been identified with
an instrument of capital punishment employed in ancient
times, and known by the name of "The Maiden."
This machine was something
Methodism in Swaledale page 11
similar in construction to the French Guillotine, and was
used at an early period in Yorkshire, especially at Hull
and Halifax. Certain districts were empowered to execute
their own prisoners, which was done often for the most trifling
thefts. From this circumstance arose what is called the
thief's prayer- "From Hell, Hull, and Halifax, good
Lord deliver us."
Higher up the valley, on the south side of the river, evidences
have been found of bloody fights and hostile frays having
taken place, especially about Crack Pot and its vicinity.
Such names as Bloody wall, Bloody Stones, and Bloody Vale,
by which several places are still called, strengthen the
impression that some sanguinary conflict has occured in
that neighbourhood. It is very probable that in the fierce
encounters between the English and Scotch, which occurred
in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, when Northallerton
was burnt, the battle of Cowton fought, and a great part
of the North Riding of Yorkshire was laid waste, that Swaledale
was the scene of some of these bloody struggles. The dalesmen
have also a tradition that a battle was fought somewhere
in the dale during the time of the Scotch rebellion,
Methodism in Swaledale page 12
and when the political and religious principles of the
leading families of this neighbourhood are considered, this
will not appear improbable.
GRINTON is the head of the parish which embraces the whole
of Swaledale, and stretches its parochial arms even as far
as Westmoreland. The parish Church is an ancient structure
dedicated to St. Andrew; in the East window is a figure
of St. George in painted glass, with the words in old black
letters - "Maria of brydlington," to which
priory it formerly belonged. About half a mile from Grinton,
near the river Swale, stands an ancient edifice called Swale
Hall. It is at present used as a farm house, but was formerly
the residence of an old and influential family named Swale.
Alured de Swale was a relative of Walter de Gaunt, first
lord of Swaledale. The first baronet, Sir Solomon, was raised
to that dignity by Charles the Second; he sat in Parliament
in 1660, was expelled the House of Commons as a Popish recusant,
and died in 1678. His grandson bore the same name, but was
most unfortunate in life. It having been discovered by certain
parties that the lease by which the Swales held their estates
from the crown
Methodism in Swaledale page 13
had for a long time been left unrenewed, suits at law were
commenced to dispossess them of it, which issued in the
person who sought to gain possession committing suicide,
and poor Sir Solomon dying in prison of a broken heart.
The last baronet was fond of giving his full address in
the following words :- Sir Solomon Swale, of Swale Hall,
Swaledale, by the river Swale. On the north side of the
river at the village of Fremington, is the seat of Sir George
William Denys, once called Fremington Hall,
then A.D. Hall, after the Arkendale mines, but now Draycott
Hall.
REETH is the principal place in the dale. It was once a
busy, thriving, little market-town, but of late years it
has been greatly deteriorated and thrown into the rear of
human progress owing to the unproductiveness of the lead
mines, and the want of railway communication. The market,
which was chartered in 1695, is now about extinct, and the
fairs which were once the scenes of crowd and bustle, have
become the wretched ghosts of their former activity and
life. Beside the Wesleyans, the Independents have a chapel,
erected about the year 1780, of which the Rev. Matthew White
is the minister.
Methodism in Swaledale page 14
At HEALAUGH the celebrated John of Gaunt was once Lord of
the Manor, and had a castle or mansion in the village. About
the middle of the sixteenth century a large part of Swaledale
was granted to the first Lord Wharton. A beautiful park,
well stocked with deer, once existed at Healaugh; Park Hail
was built by the fifth Lord Wharton towards the end of the
seventeenth century. The fourth Lord Wharton built and endowed
a Presbyterian chapel at Smarber Hall, which is now in ruins;
the endowment has passed into the hands of the Independents
at Low Row, where a chapel was erected in the place of the
old one in 1809, the present minister of which is the Rev.
John Boyd. Low Row has the honour of being the birthplace
of the present Lord Wensleydale, better known as Baron Park.
The Parks were a respectable family of longstanding in the
neighbourhood, but have all died off, or removed. His lordship
is an instance of what may be a difficult but yet a possible
attainment, viz: that by talent and perseverance an Englishman
may rise from humble life, to the possession of the greatest
honour's which his nation can confer. Lord Swaledale would
have been an appropriate title
Methodism in Swaledale page 15
to assume, but his lordship chose the one he bears on account
of his property being principally in that dale.
GUNNERSIDE is a considerable village, inhabited chiefly by
miners. A forest once covered the immense hills in its vicinity,
which made it a place of great resort to sportsmen who came
to shoot the game which once abounded there; it has been supposed
that this fact had something to do with giving it the name
it bears.
AT MUKER there is a small church which was erected in 1580,
and is dedicated to St. Mary.
AT THWAITE AND KELD there are chapels belonging to the Independents,
the former has been recently built, but the latter was erected
in 1745; the Rev. J. Wilkinson is the present minister of
both places. Beyond Keld are deep ravines and frowning mountains,
the abodes of desolation and dreariness, amidst which the
river Swale takes its rise.*
[footnote] * There is amongst the dalespeople a strong tendency
to the use of nicknames, especially in" Swaudle,"
as it is often called. The practice is almost universal, so
much so that it is exceedingly difficult at times to find
out an individual's real name. Many of them are formed of
pedigrees and the names of fore-elders conjoined, such as
Peter Tom Willy, Mark Jammie Joss, Dicky Tom Johnny. The Richmond
Almanac informs us that [footnote continued at bottom of page
16]
Methodism in Swaledale page 16
In giving a rapid sketch of the dale it is but just to its
people to notice the almost entire absence from crime which
marks the valley. That the population is free from immorality,
or fully what it should be, we by no means affirm, but a serious
misdemeanor is a rare occurrence, and a deed of bloodshed,
so far as we can learn, has never stained the annals of the
dale. The preaching of the gospel, the beneficial influence
of Sunday Schools, Day Schools, and Temperance Societies,
have done much to improve the morals of the inhabitants. Two
things at present make against the material prosperity of
the dalespeople, viz., the comparative unproductiveness of
the lead mines, and also the want
[footnote continued from page 15] *in 1804, when the Loyal
Dales volunteers were stationed in that town, the following
were the bye-names which distinguished those who bore the
common name of Thomas Alderson from one another ;- Grain Tom,
Glowremour Tom, Screamer Tom. Poddish Tom, Tarry Tom, Tish
Tom, Tripy Tom, Trooper Tom. Modern civilization and refinement
have done something towards improving the dialect of the dale,
but it is surprising to hear even educated persons designate
their neighbours by such singular appellation. It is a fact
that some time ago the postman took a letter to a person addressed
to Mr. C--, not a hundred miles from Gunnerside; on enquiry
for such a name he was told by the party enquired of that
he knew of no such person. After considerable exercise of
thought he ascertained that it was for himself, whose real
name had been forgotten for the moment under the more familiar
designation of Assy Will Kit. [end of footnote]
Methodism in Swaledale page 17
of railway accommodation, the nearest stations being Leyburn,
eight miles distant, and Richmond ten and a half miles. In
consequence of the limited supply of employment numbers have
had to seek fresh ground in other parts of the country, most
of which have done well, and some have risen to positions
of wealth and influence. Hundreds have also sought new homes
on foreign shores where many of them are bringing forth the
fruits of moral training which they received in some of the
quiet villages on the banks of the Swale. A day may come,
however, when some hitherto concealed treasures of these mighty
hills will be discovered, and open up sources of wealth and
labour to the population; when the locomotive engine will
be heard breaking the silence of this valley; when crowded
carriages will bear multitudes of toil-worn operatives from
distant parts to gaze upon the romantic scenery, and to drink
the health-giving breezes of SWALEDALE.
Having in the foregoing pages endeavoured, by way of introduction,
to describe the ground upon which Methodism gained some
of its early triumphs, we will now
Methodism in Swaledale page 18
proceed to trace its rise
and progress in this locality.
Prior to its introduction the religious condition of the
people was marked not so much by open opposition to the
gospel, as by the love of sports and games, and general
indifference to religion. We have not been able to trace
any instance of brutal persecution, or abuse of the preachers
of God's word, which disgraced so many other places. Methodism
did not find the ground unoccupied, for, beside the Established
Churches at Grinton and Muker, the Presbyterians, Independents,
and Quakers had places of worship in various parts. It did
find, however, as it found almost universally, that religion
had dwindled into cold and empty formalism, and greatly
needed the quickening and reviving influence, to promote
which was one of the great objects for which it was originated,
and which it was so calculated to impart.
The first nearest approach which it made to this valley
without actually entering it, was in a couple of visits
which Mr. Wesley paid to the adjoining dale in the years
1743 and 1744. This was only a short time after he commenced
his itinerant career.
Methodism in Swaledale page 19
In his Journal he writes under date, Friday, Oct. 28th,
1743. - "We rode with Wm. Holmes, 'an Israelite indeed',
from Epworth to Syke House. Here I preached at ten, and
hastened on to Leeds, from whence, setting out early in
the morning I had hopes of reaching Wensleydale before it
was dark, but it could not be: so in the dusk of the evening,
notwithstanding we had five or six miles to ride, I thought
it best to procure a guide. In less than an hour, it being
extremely dark, I perceived that we had got out of all road.
We were in a large meadow, near a river, and it seemed to
be almost surrounded with water, I asked our guide, 'Do
you know where we are?' and he honestly answered, 'No.'
So we rode on as we could till about eight we came to a
little house, whence we were directed into a lane which
led to Wensley."
Here he spent the following day, and says, Sunday, 30th
:-
"Mr Clayton read prayers and I preached on 'What
must I do to be saved?' I showed in the plainest words
that I could devise that mere outside religion would not
bring us to heaven, that none could go thither without inward
holiness, which was only to be attained by faith. As I went
back through the yard many of the parishioners were in high
debate what religion the preacher was of. Some said 'He
must be a Quaker,' others 'An Anabaptist,' but at length
one deeper learned than the rest, brought them all clearly
to his opinion that he was a 'Presbyterian Papist.' "
We have in this record incidentally mentioned the circumstance
of being lost in a
Methodism in Swaledale page 20
strange country, and wandering about for hours on a dark
October night; also the amusing speculations of his hearers
as to the religious tenets of the stranger who had been
officiating for their minister that morning. Mr. Clayton
was an old college friend when at Oxford, and readily offered
his pulpit to Mr. Wesley. In May of the following year he
paid another visit, and says, Sat. 19th:-
"I went on to Mr. Clayton's at Wensley, and on Sunday,
20th, preached in Redmire Church on part of John 3rd, the
gospel for the day. In the afternoon I preached at Bolton
Chapel, on 'We know that we are of God.' I was pleased
at the serious behaviour of the congregation both in the
morning and afternoon, especially at Redmire, where from
a village of about thirty houses we had more than fifty
communicants."
Although these extracts are not immediately connected with
this dale, we quote them for the purpose of showing that,
as these places were at so short a distance, it is very
probable that some from this locality would avail themselves
of this opportunity of hearing the founder of Methodism
at a very early period. Amongst his hearers at Redmire and
Bolton would very likely be some from Reeth, Low Row, or
Gunner-
Methodism in Swaledale page 21
side, who, attracted by the fame of this celebrated
preacher, would cross the hills to hear him, and, on returning
home, would bear with them the precious seed which had been
sown in their hearts, which probably resulted in the formation
of Methodist views and principles in the various places
where they lived.
Almost contemporaneously with the facts just named we find
that in the opposite valley, (Teesdale,) the work of God
began its rise. A society was formed at Barnard Castle in
1747, which soon spread into the villages around. This blessed
work was originated and carried on chiefly through the instrumentality
of Jacob Rowell, and his brother, also, Matthew Lowes, Wm.
Darney, and others. Burning with zeal and full of compassion
for the souls of men, these zealous labourers pushed their
way across the moors and mountains and were the first to
proclaim the glad tidings of salvation to the inhabitants
of Swaledale and Arkengarthdale.
Prior to Mr. Wesley visiting this locality several small
societies had been formed, chiefly under the ministry and
care of Jacob Rowell, which numbered on the whole, including
all the dale,
