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The Handy Guide To Swaledale (No2)
Printed and published by Northern Echo, Freemans Place, Darlington
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[Partial content relating to Upper Swaledale
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The Handy Guide To Swaledale (No2) - page 57
KELD
Population - About 100.
Early Closing Day - Tuesday.
Places of Worship - Congregational Chapel, 2-0 p.m., 7 p.m.:
Wesleyan Chapel, 7 p.m. Parish church at Muker.
Literary Institute, Library, and Reading Room.
Post Office - Open 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., weekdays; 8-30 a.m. to
10 a.m., Sundays. Delivery of letters commences 11a.m.; despatch,
1-30 p.m.
Money Orders; Telegrams; Telephone.
Distances - Askrigg, 8 miles; Hawes, 8; Kirkby Stephen, 11;
Richmond, 22.
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Thwaite (Photo, Gowing, Bedale)
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Keld is the highest village in the dale. Situated amongst
wild mountain scenery it is becoming increasingly popular
as a centre for tourists. It has little pretensions to history,
but is a place of some antiquity. Records show that in 1307
there was a William de Keld who was charged by the Earl of
Richmond with chasing deer in the New Forest of Arkengarth
without his leave. Then there is the old Keld chapel mentioned
by John Leland in 1540, and formerly belonging to the Established
Church. This was a ruin in the 17th century, but was restored
as a Calvinistic place of worship. In 1789 it was again rebuilt
for the Independents. One Edward Stillman
The Handy Guide To Swaledale (No2) - page
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was minister of the chapel from that date till 1837. Of Parson
Stillman the story is told that, requiring money for the repair
of his church, and his flock being too poor to provide it,
he walked all the way to London and back for the purpose of
raising the necessary funds. His moving tale of the needs
of his lonely parish was effective. He arrived back at Keld
with the money in his pocket, and his total expenses for the
double-journey amounted to sixpence!
Keld is within easy reach of quite a number of waterfalls.
The district, indeed, is hardly surpassed for its romantic
river and hill scenery, and is an endless source
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Catrake Force, Keld
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of delight to the photographer. Kisdon Force (the most imposing
of all), Catrake Force, Rainby Force, and Wainwath are formed
by the precipitous nature of the Swale's rocky bed; Currack
Force is on Stonedale Beck; and there are two waterfalls on
East Gill Beck. The various falls mentioned are only a short
distance from each other. Catrake Force is close to the E.
side of Keld, the descent to the falls being by a number of
steps reached by a footpath through a farm yard near Keld
Post Office. The rocks form a great amphitheatre in the centre
of which there is a cascade composed of three falls broken
by projecting ledges. Near the Post Office, too, there is
a footpath leading to Kisdon Force, about three-quarters of
a mile before Catrake
The Handy Guide To Swaledale (No2) - page
59
Force. It is situated in a romantic wooded glen with immense
rocks and rough scars towering above. Midway between the two
falls, East Gill Beck empties itself into the Swale, and the
charming waterfall on the beck is seen from the bridge over
the main stream near the confluence of the beck with the main
stream.
Currack Force is on Stonesdale Beck, less than half a mile
from Keld, near Park House, at the junction of the Tanhill
and Brough road with the main road to Kirkby Stephen. The
beck falls over a shelving rock, and the stream is broken
into several falls before it joins the Swale.
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Kisdon Force, Keld (Photo, Gowing, Bedale)
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Cauterby Scar is a long escarpment of perpendicular limestone
cliffs running for about a thousand yards along the N. bank
of the Swale, and is reached by following the high road from
Keld a short distance. At the extremity of the scar is a waterfall
known as Hoggarth's Leap, which has a background of overhanging
scars crowned with elm trees and mountain ash.
A fine moorland walk from Keld is to the summit of Nine Standards
Rigg (2,008 ft.). The easiest way is to follow the Kirkby
Stephen road alongside Birkdale Beck as far as Coldberg Side
(near the boundary of Yorkshire and Westmorland), then cross
Coldberg Edge and make straight for the Rigg. The approximate
distance is 7 miles, but the latter portion of the journey
The Handy Guide To Swaledale (No2) - page
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is very exhausting, and the time occupied depends upon the
physical strength exerted. When the summit of Nine Standards
is reached, however, the climber will be amply rewarded. On
the E., S. and N. sides there appears to be nothing but a
treeless, houseless waste but to the W. a striking contrast
opens out. Here the vista is the valley of the Eden, a veritable
"golden valley," luxuriant and populous, with Kirkby
Stephen nestling snugly amidst a pastoral expanse. There is
no view in all this wild borderland that presents such a complete
contrast by the mere turn of the head.
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East Stonesdale (Photo, Gowing, Bedale)
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The return journey may be varied by striking S.-E. to Whitsundale
Beck (a rocky glen which runs down to the Swale from Nine Standards)
and Raven Seat, joining the main road at Hoggarth's or Park
Bridge. A whole day should be allowed for this walk.
A walk of similar character is the ascent of High Seat (2,328
ft.). The Kirkby Stephen road is followed as far as the county
boundary at Hollow Mill Cross, and the mountain is two miles
to the S. Lower down the ridge is a cairn known as Lady's
Pillar (2,257 ft.), on one of the stones being the date 1664
and the letters "A. P." the initials of Lady Anne
Clifford, Countess of Pembroke, who personally "rode
the bounds" in Pembroke in the year named. The rivers
Eden, Ure, Cotter and Swale may all be said to have their
source on the
The Handy Guide To Swaledale (No2) - page
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slopes of High Seat. The return journey should be made over
the same course as the outward.
The Source of the Swale. - About three miles from Keld, in
a westerly direction, the Birkdale and Great Sleddale Becks
join, and thence onwards the river becomes the Swale. The
Kirkby Stephen road follows the course of the Birkdale Beck
almost to its source, near the borders of Westmorland, four
miles from its confluence with Sleddale Beck. Uldale Gill,
rising on the N. side of High Seat (2,328 ft.) and Crooked
Sike, with its source on Coldberg Edge on the S. side of Nine
Standards Rigg, join to form the Birkdale Beck,
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Tan Hill Inn (Photo, Gowing, Bedale)
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and these may be said to provide the beginnings of the Swale.
Both streamlets rise close to the boundaries of Yorkshire and
Westmoreland.
"Birkdale Beck runs through a wild mountainous ravine
without a solitary tree to break the cruel monotony of rock
and grit, the hills rising in rugged grandeur, on every hand
frowning crags." The beck drains a vast area of this
wilderness of mountain.
The Swale, in the four miles from the smelting mill above
Keld, declines from 1,100 ft. to 850 ft. From Muker to Richmond
the descent is only about 25 ft. per mile on the average.
Birkdale Tarn, up on the N. side of the road, is a sheet
of water about 20 acres in extent on the wild, treeless expanse
of Birkdale Common. The Tarn is about four miles from Keld.
The Handy Guide To Swaledale (No2) - page
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Tanhill is reached by crossing the Swale at Park Bridge and
following the old road alongside West Stonesdale Beck. The
road joins the Reeth and Brough road at Tanhill, which was
formerly the coal centre of the neighbourhood, there being
a colliery there. As an instance of the loneliness of the
whole district
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Swinnergill Kirk Falls
(Photo, Gowing, Bedale)
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it may be mentioned that in former days, before Bowes, Barras,
Kirkby Stephen, and Hawes were connected with the colliery centres
by rail, the coal drawn from Tanhill pit was carted to great
distances, two days often being required for the journey to
and from the pit. There is an inn at Tanhill which is said to
be the highest in the North Riding - 1,727 ft. Distance : 4
miles to Tanhill.
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Swinnergill Kirk is more easily reached from Keld than from
Muker. It is about one and three-quarter miles from the former
village.
NOTES FOR NATURALISTS
The "Victoria History of the County of York" has
the following notes on Upper Swaledale which will be of interest
to naturalists:-
"Following the highway from Keld to Muker we have opposite
Angram a fine range of rugged and broken main limestone precipices
girdling the crest of Kisdon, and 70 ft. below them a scar
of Underset Limestone with a fir plantation upon its slope,
in descending from which, towards the little stream which
runs down this open undulated hollow, the Middle Limestone
is obscurely seen at a depth of 150 ft. below the underset
band. Upon these crags is abundance of Sesleria and
Draba incana, a little yew and juniper, Hieracia
murrorum and H. gothieum, and Asplenium viride
and Orthothecium intricatium are also to be met with.
At Thwaite we cross the Cliff Gill stream in front of a pretty
little waterfall over limestone. Upon its banks we have Rubus
saxatillis, Galium sylvestre, Hieracium anglicum,
and Bartramia Oederi. At Muker this stream joins the
Swale, which in the four miles from the smelting mill above
Keld has declined from 1,100 to 850 ft. Here we have Orthotrichum
tenellum and O. stramineum in hedgerows, and in
the fields Cardus heterophyllus in abundance.
"Eastwards we have now on the north between Swaledale,
Arkengarthdale, and the Greta watershed a grand sweep of ramified
elevated moorland. From the Swale to the summit of drainage
on the north the distance is at least five miles. On the edge
of Gretadale, Water Crag attains 2,176 ft., above 900 ft.
of which is Millstone Grit. This is the extreme thickness
which the gritstone reaches in North Yorkshire, the upper
beds being of later date than are to be met with in any other
station amongst the hills.
"Over the edge of Swaledale, opposite Kisdon, Rogan's
Seat attains 2,204 ft., with an elevated spur of hill stretching
out from it towards the south, upon which is a locality for
Sphagnum molluscum. A stream runs down from the peaks
towards the south, and falls
The Handy Guide To Swaledale (No2) - page
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into the Swale at Gunnerside. It has a steep grassy glen,
margined by the Main Limestone scars, which yield Sesleria
and Galium sylvestre, and in a streamlet which flows
from them Epilobium alsinifolium grows. Here are some
of the lead works of the Old Gang Vein, with, as is usual,
abundance of Arenaria verna. East of this glen Friarfold
Moor attains 1,935 ft., and Browsey Moor, which stands boldy
out towards the main dale, 1,765 ft.
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Swinnergill Ravine (Photo, Gowing, Bedale)
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"Between Muker and Reeth the distance is nine miles,
the course of the stream being again due east, and its fall
comparatively gentle, not above 25ft. per mile on the average.
The population of this part of the dale is thin, the dale
narrow and grassy, its slopes steep and occasionally covered
with wood.
.The Upper Limestone forms scars along the
edge of the dale in many places. From Muker the Main Limestone
rises slightly towards the east, so that at Reeth we have
it nearly, or quite, at the top of the fells on both sides
of the river
.For several miles along the eastern side
of the lower part of the dale we have a fine range of Main
Limestone precipices."
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Text ©Northern
Echo, Freemans Place, Darlington
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